Wednesday 19 March 2014

Maui: Coconuts, Surfing, and Volcano Sunsets

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Hawaii is obviously known for its world-class surfing, so while we were on Maui, we knew we had to check out some of the big wave spots. Some of the biggest waves in the world happen at “Jaws”, a spot on the north shore near Pa’ia. Unfortunately none of the swells were big enough to attract the major pipeline competitions while we were there, but not for lack of trying on our part – we checked three days in a row to see if we could watch the surfers! No luck. We did, however, get a chance to see some of the smaller waves on Ho’okipa Beach, the world’s number one wind-surfing destination. The athleticism of those surfers is incredible.

After we had watched the surfers dance along the waves, Chris bought me a coconut to drink from a nearby van. This was my first time drinking a coconut, and it’s safe to say I’m obsessed. Coconut water is now a staple in my fridge.

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We devoured that coconut on the beach while watching the waves, killing time until our lunch reservation at Mama’s Fish House. The lady from the coconut van had recommended we each at Mama’s, saying that it was the best food on the island. I had read a lot about it prior to arriving in Maui, but chalked it up to more tourist hype. Once we heard from the locals that it was a “must-try”, we made reservations right then and there. It did not disappoint.

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We ordered a series of small plates to share: oysters, sashimi, beef in a papaya, kalua pork, and poi. It was delicious, and we washed it down with fruity tropical drinks while watching the ocean. We had the best seats in the house – right near the open window that looked onto a picturesque beach.

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After lunch we wandered out onto the beach, to join the throngs of our fellow diners taking pictures. We especially loved the hanging palm tree. Chris had fun posing on that one!

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Over lunch we decided that we would like to watch the sunset atop the Haleakala Volcano. On our way up to the volcano, we stopped in Pa’ia for a little shopping, groceries, and a walk. Pa’ia is a surf town on the north shore, and is dotted with trendy boutiques, lively restaurants, and hippies wandering barefoot.

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With our Jeep stocked with provisions from the Pa’ia organic supermarket, we embarked on our 2 hour drive up to the top of the volcano. It was pouring rain when we neared the clouds, around the 8,000 foot elevation marker. The road was so windy and narrow, and the rain was pounding so hard, that it was nearly impossible to navigate. A few cars ahead turned back and gave up, but we kept on going. When we broke through the cloud cover, it was silent, cool, and dry.

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We quickly changed into warm clothes and continued driving up the rest of the way to the summit, which is around 10,000 feet above sea level. It’s the highest I’ve ever been, and I definitely felt a bit short of breath and dizzy. We joined a small smattering of people on the summit, taking some photos before Mother Nature began painting the sky.

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It was arguably the most beautiful sunset I’ve ever seen. We were above 99% of the clouds, yet there were still some above us. Chris quoined the term “sandwich sunset” to describe it. It was breathtaking, and because we were so high up, it felt other-worldly…so quiet…the air so crisp…the temperature so low. It was hard to believe that we had been sweating on the beach just a few hours ago.

As soon as the sun dipped under the clouds, everyone left. We stayed and watched for another 40 minutes as the sky continued to smoulder and change colour. The picture above was taken when everyone had already left! We had the place to ourselves, and literally slow-danced on the summit of a volcano as the clouds swirled around us. I’m so thankful to have had that experience, even if it meant driving down the treacherous roads in the pitch-black. Thanks, Mother Nature, for putting on that show for us. We loved it.

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